Converting an imported Eunos to UK MOT requirements;


By Malcolm Gray-Stephens
('94 1.8 and '91 I sold)

To make road legal Eunos

  1. Speedo needs to change from KPH to MPH
  2. Fit foglight, switch and warning light.
  3. Number plates

1     Speedo needs to change from KPH to MPH

1.1 Get new face from Exchange&Mart adverts, I believe it does not backlight properly and the odometer and trip meter are in km still
1.2 Buy new head from Mazda dealer £320
1.3 Get Speedo from US car - Mazmart $50+$68(p&p)20%+17.5% =100 (this will have USE UNLEADED FUEL in the middle) but does all the right things - MPH is largest writing, trip and odometer in miles. To fit speedo remove two screens under instrument binnacle first remove steering column cowl 3 screws. The binnacle snaps up with 3 steel self-retaining springs. Remove instrument panel 5 torx screws. Pull Speedo sleeve back then remove Speedo cable. Remove all wires write down where they went! Remove instrument panel to bench/inside. Remove front panel from back. Remove Speedo if going to new instrument it is easy to properly reclock using keyless drill rubber chuck on drive wheel remove needle (pulls off) note where it falls/rests, replace dial/instrument. While you have it out check all the instrument bulbs work and are present where required. Reassembly is reverse!!!
 

2     Fit foglight, switch and warning light.

2.1 Foglight;
Ed's note: Definite news of a Eunos failing an MOT with the high level stop light converted to a fog lamp. A mix of the dual brake/foglamp application, and the lens being the wrong red.
2.1.1 Buy second-hand, recondition (you will not believe how rusty it is!) £54 from breaker. Then cut hole in rear bumper to fit. There is a black plastic reinforcement bar behind the rear bumper. This has 2 flat areas for foglight fitment - use one on RHS. The hole to cut is odd shape but original UK cars have 5mm clearance all around so cut small and work outwards carefully and you will have a better job than the UK car.
2.1.2 Make bracket to fit standard motor factor item. I originally made a two part bracket that bolted into the wrong side (not bumper side) of the factory mounting area on the reinforcement bar - you had to remove the plastic screws that hold the lower lip of the bumper onto the reinforcement bar so that the bolts (M5 roofing bolts with washers) could be slipped in. This bracket is L shaped, the second bracket is straight with an S kick in the end to clear the bolt of the bumper. This bracket is needed because of the need to move the bumper lower edge to secure the first bracket. It terminates in a hole and slot - take the motor factor standard item and from inside remove the bracket retaining bolt. This will now fit upsides down onto the top of the second bracket. The result is no damage to any original part with the motor factor item mounted upside down and level with the bottom edge of the bumper, just not touching the rear bumper.
2.1.3 Be quick and nasty - drill holes (bolt & wires for standard motor factor item into rear bumper. Remove plastic screws on bottom edge of bumper to hold and fit nut to secure. Try and find a smaller sized lamp to do this - there is more than one type available.
2.2 Switch
2.2.1 Buy Mazda item
2.2.2 But see warning light section standard fitment is to right of steering wheel in row of three but if you have too many you could fit it under the UK specification stereo you will probably fit. This switch has backlighting so when the dash lights are switched on it will illuminate.
2.2.3 Fit cheap and nasty self illuminating one from motor factor this has to light up when switched on,
2.3 Warning light The UK cars have a special instrument panel with a foglight warning light built in. The '90 & ' 94 cars I have done did not have this the '94 had the extra rear demister light. Some MOT stations do not pick this requirement up. Mine hasn't done so yet - Ed.
2.3.1 Fit Mazda switch but I modified mine; Take switch apart, buy/find/acquire very thin wire (nearly see through so do not drop it!!), dash warning bulb. Then drill rocker of switch (white bit) on the other side from the illumination switch with small drill so that the dash bulb will fit tightly. Solder fine wire to both terminals of bulb, fit bulb (it is now nearer surface and so a lot brighter than illumination bulb), partially reassemble then inally solder wires from dash bulb to terminals of the switch before putting together.
2.3.2 Motor factor item is wired to go on when powered and switched (no dash illumination)
2.3.3 New warning bulb holder near switch.
2.4 Wire. (boot to light)
2.4.1 Standard Mazda light goes through wheel behind LHS wheel where the jack is located. The bung is on the vertical side at the back. Wire needs some securing under car to reinforcement bar loop type clips into holes provided (Citreon use lots of these under the bonnet on the inner wings to secure their wires).
2.4.2 Wire from non standard light; Remove rear central boot liner pull centres out using finger nails then the outer comes out. Find the grommet on RHS and feed wires out by rear numberplate light fitting and down to foglight.
2.4.3 Wire (inside boot) Earth terminal on LHS of boot lock (having removed central rear boot liner as above). Positive wire travels forward to switch use black tape to attach to wiring loom following it around LHS through behind the fuel filler cover cover and steel plate 10mm socket.
2.4.4 Wire inside passenger compartment Remove carpet behind passenger seat firtrees use two flat bladed screwdrivers to prise out. Feed wire through from behind. Feed wire behind trim down B pillar to sill Feed wire behind sill covers/carpet to the passenger foot well Feed wire under carpet to under dash board Feed wire from LHS to RHS foot well as small tunnel under ventilation pipe. Feed wire to switch.
2.5 Wire switch
2.5.1 Find wire that goes on with dip/main beam but not sidelights; either headlights raise relay right one to left of steering under dash or if early car tap into the light switch wiring after remove the covers around the steering column. Run this down to inline fuse holder which is to be ty wrapped to side of fuse box (RHS of drivers feet under the dash). Take other side of fuse to one side of foglight switch. (Fuse holder is nicety this supply will be fused somewhere we hope!!)
2.5.2 Wire other side of switch to foglight.
2.5.3 Add earth terminal above and towards driver from fuse box. This is need to illuminate the factory item or the self illuminating motor factor item.
2.5.4 Add dash illumination if on factory item the dimmer is the bridged or fitted small wire bundle at the 3 switch group on the RHS of driver. Both my cars had a dummy switch fitted with a straight across bar as no dimming was fitted.
2.6 Test; No lights, no warning. Only should illuminate warning light when fog light on. Foglight should only work when main beam or dipped beam are on.
 

3     Number plates

3.1 Front
3.1.1 Pre '94 the metal frame bolts into mouth of bumper ususally paint damage behind it. A plastic frame slips over the top.
3.1.2 Fit Mazda plastic frame 20 (centre it and drill two holes for supplied retainers). This does cover paint damage. To fit numberplate clean with spirits frame and numberplate then apply double sided tape to numberplate. Try and give number plate preset curve they are fragile. Finally gently warm the numberplate and holder using heat gun before applying it start in the centre and work outwards.
3.1.3 Get numberplate to adapter to existing holder uprights small custom plate and motor bike size does work MOT?
3.1.4 Stick on number plate MOT?
3.1.5 Fit number plate in mouth of bumper cooling may become problem especially in South.
3.1.6 Post '94 a plastic frame like the UK one is used but is tall and narrow there are holes in the bumper to secure it
3.1.7 Mazda frame best option (see above) this covers the holes.
3.1.8 Fill holes and then any of the above
3.2 Back
Ed's note: I have yet to hear of a Eunos failing an MOT on a rear number plate: If you hear any different, please let me know.
3.2.1 This has a panel reaching from rear wing to rear wing and from boot to bumper which is different to UK cars. It is for Japan/US number plate which is tall and narrow. It secures this by two clips at the bottom and two bolts through the plate. The Eunos has the badges on either side of the numberplate well at the bottom above the bumper but the MX5 has it above the numberplate well below the bootlid.
3.2.2 Keep rear panel this may cause problem with cars passing UK specification test. Make a cardboard template of the area and take it along to the numberplate supplier a two row system with them close together fits and looks good. You will have to hacksaw (fragile) and file until it fits. To secure either use bolts as before or stick on I broke bottom clips off (one had gone anyway and it is covered by the plate) and used double sided tape. Find rear panel to take single row UK plate this will then take Mazda MX5 badges above the numberplate. This needs to be resprayed to car colour and is plastic. Circa 150+100 (paint) second-hand if you can find it.

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